Time was, what we're about to tell you would have been a dirty little secret. But lately, supermarket ingredients are showing up on restaurant menus across the country in not-so-hush-hush ways, delivering results that fancier ones can't. Here are 16 chefs who use humble foods for a lofty outcome.
1/ Monica Segovia-Welsh, Lantern; Chapel Hill, North Carolina
WHAT Kellogg's Corn Flakes, $4 for a 12-ounce box
HOW For garnishing a sweet corn panna cotta
WHY "Candied corn flakes bring the dish together. They highlight the corn flavor, and they add crunch, plus a fun visual element."
2/ Naomi Pomeroy, Beast; Portland, Oregon
WHAT Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce, $4 for a 10-ounce bottle
HOW In soups
WHY The "American version of fish sauce" gives umami, the Japanese term for savoriness. "A few dashes right before serving make a difference."
3/ Michael Psilakis, Kefi; New York
WHAT Wonder bread, $3 for a 20-ounce loaf
HOW In meatballs
WHY "Wonder bread turns to mush when soaked in milk. It blends more evenly into the ground meat than artisanal bread and makes a lighter meatball."
4/ Jessica Boncutter, Bar Jules; San Francisco
WHAT Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes, $3 for a 28-ounce can
HOW In braised short ribs and in bouillabaisse
WHY "They're the next best thing to a summer tomato, blanched and peeled."
5/ Alfred Portale, Gotham Bar and Grill; New York
WHAT Hellmann's mayonnaise, $4 for a 15-ounce jar
HOW To bind a crab and lobster cake
WHY "We also make our own mayonnaise. But the stabilizers in mayo from a jar help this dish--which contains no breadcrumbs--keep its shape."
6/ Graham Elliot Bowles, Graham Elliot; Chicago
WHAT Altoids peppermints, $2 for a 1.76-ounce tin
HOW To sauce a leg of lamb
WHY Dissolved in lamb jus before serving, the candies "provide a more concentrated mint flavor" than fresh mint.
7/ Joseph Mahon, Bastide; Los Angeles
WHAT Nutella, $4 for a 13-ounce jar
HOW In chocolate custard
WHY Adds depth. "I can't make a better hazelnut paste. It's a flavor that people know, even if they can't identify the ingredient."
8/ Krista Kern Desjarlais, Bresca; Portland, Maine
WHAT Wondra Quick-Mixing Flour, $5 for a 13.5-ounce container
HOW For coating sweetbreads and fish before frying
WHY "It gives a thinner, more delicate coating than all purpose flour."
9/ Eric Yost, White Dog Cafe; Philadelphia
WHAT Pop Rocks Pumpkin Patch Orange, $1 for a 0.33-ounce package
HOW In chocolate mousse
WHY "Orange flavor--and the crackly texture puts a question mark on everybody's face."
10/ Alex Guarnaschelli, Butter Restaurant; New York
WHAT Philadelphia Brick Cream Cheese, $2 for an 8-ounce package
HOW In tart dough
WHY It's better than just butter. "The result tastes creamy, rich, and slightly tangy."
11/ Mark Fuller, Spring Hill; Seattle
WHAT Tim's Cascade Style Potato Chips, $3 for an 8-ounce bag
HOW For coating pan-fried crab cakes
WHY "Crushed potato chips mixed with panko give a crisp crust." Fuller favors a local brand, but says that any good potato chip can be used.
12/ Anne Kearney, Rue Dumaine; Dayton, Ohio
WHAT Birds Eye frozen pearl onions, $3 for a 16-ounce bag
HOW For Sherry-braised veal shank with artichokes and grape tomatoes
WHY "Peeling fresh pearl onions is really time-consuming, and individually quick-frozen ones are surprisingly good."
13/ Joseph Gillard, Napa Valley Grille; Los Angeles
WHAT Nabisco Ginger Snaps, $5 for a 16-ounce box
HOW As part of the gremolata topping for butternut squash tortellini
WHY Gillard likes the texture that the crumbs bring, and "ginger really pulls the flavor out of the butternut squash."
14/ Daniel Angerer, Klee Brasserie; New York
WHAT Pomi Italian strained tomatoes, $3 for a 26-ounce package
HOW In bean, tomato, and rosemary soup with Speck crisps
WHY "No additives, just tomatoes--these deliver the flavor I look for in tomatoes."
15/ Nick Rutherford, Porter Beer Bar; Atlanta
WHAT Morrison Farms Natural Light Microwave Popcorn, $3 for a 9-ounce box
HOW In "salt and vinegar" popcorn
WHY Making popcorn the traditional way is "a nightmare" at a busy restaurant. "This is the plainest-tasting microwave popcorn we've found; it doesn't have that fake butter flavor."
16/ Janos Wilder, Janos; Tucson, Arizona
WHAT Dr Pepper, $2 for a 2-liter bottle
HOW For braising pork shoulder
WHY "The flavors work well with the fennel, clove, cumin, and star anise in the marinade. The soda seems to help tenderize the pork, and it caramelizes deliciously on the surface of the pork during roasting."
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